Gulliver Reborn Mod for MC 1.12.2 By BlockMinecraft Last updated Sep 4, 2019 0 The modification will add most of the functionality of the old Gulliver mod: the ability to change its size using the / ms command; climb blocks with mucus in hand; take smaller players in hand. Gulliver Reborn Mod 1.12.2 adds some of the features from the old Gulliver Mod back into version 1.12.2. Features: /mysize (/ms) command to change the player’s size. Filename Gulliver Reborn mc1.12.2 v1.10.jar. Uploaded by Camellias Uploaded Sep 4, 2019. Game Version Forge. Downloads 21,217. MD5 a8e94599858cee406ac9bb0d9c4d6616. Gulliver Reborn adds some of the features from the old Gulliver Mod back into 1.12.2. Want assistance with the mod, or have a feature request? Gullivers mod 1.12.2.

FoCal Features. FoCal runs on Windows or Mac computers and controls your camera to calibrate and analyse.

OBS Classic (Deprecated)OBS Classic is no longer supported or maintained; please use OBS Studio for new projects.The original Open Broadcaster Software bundle comes with both 32-bit and 64-bit versions and is available only for Windows.This program and its source code are freely available for all to use and change under the GNU General Public License v2.0 (or greater), which you agree to when using this program or its source code.Note: Major development has been moved to OBS StudioIf you wish to contribute.

I don't hear much talk around here about FocusTune software. A couple of years ago when the D800 first came out, everyone was talking about FoCal, but I have read very little on FocusTune.Michael Tapes makes the software look pretty powerful and easy to use, and they just came out with version 3.0.I have FoCal, but never really got on very well with it, and had marginal success.

Dot Tune is OK, but I tend to just use my eye with collections of images with different AF adjustments (basically, a manual process).Just curious since there has to be some users on here using FocusTune I would guess, and if there is a way to make the process easier, I am all for it. FocusTune 3.0 works pretty well. I use it for tuning my long telephotos. When dealing with very narrow depths of field of focus, that slight correction can make a big difference.

It has enabled me to correct for some back focusing issues, enabling me to make sure a birds entire head is in the depth of field of focus.As you stated, my D800 needed much greater adjustments than the D4 & D4s. Net result is that all my bodies are reasonably sharp and I get better results, all else equal.Downside is that it is very time consuming.

It took us roughly 5 hours to do roughly 16 lens/body/TC combos this AM. Set up is also critical and time consuming as you must assure that everything is level and in-plane.The software U/I is decent and the processing is fairly straight forward. It would be great if Nikon build in a preprogrammed interface so that you did not need to keep accessing the menu to change the focus tune values for each set of shots (this is the painful part).

Audio technica ath m50 driver for mac. If Nikon would open its SDKs, you could easily generate an automated shooting program. Mustaphapashu wrote:I just rented LensAlign from LensRentals but it did not include the software version.

It took me a long time to test my D810 and D700 along with 3 lenses. Either I didn't do a good job visually interpreting the shooting results or something else was off because the results did not improve anything and I ended up zeroing out the fine-tune settings for one lens.FoCal has always interested me, and I'm waiting for them to release it for the D810. Soloryb,Your excellent description of the workflow is exactly what I did. My disappointment came about when I was shooting my 24-70 at 2.8 at some stuff in my backyard. Whether I was focusing close or at a distance nothing was truly sharp; re-setting the AF fine tune to zero and shooting the same subject resulted in a sharp image. All tripod, mirror up, 3200th of a sec shutter, the works.I was so careful during the testing phase with the LensAlign and did precisely what you - and the directions - describe. Trust me, I'm pretty retentive with things like this!

So when I got some front focusing values upon testing I was able to dial in a corrective value to get a nice, evenly sharp ruler shot. But real world shooting showed something different and I can't explain why. Mustaphapashu wrote:Soloryb,Your excellent description of the workflow is exactly what I did. My disappointment came about when I was shooting my 24-70 at 2.8 at some stuff in my backyard. Whether I was focusing close or at a distance nothing was truly sharp; re-setting the AF fine tune to zero and shooting the same subject resulted in a sharp image. All tripod, mirror up, 3200th of a sec shutter, the works.Did you try different zoom focal lengths?I was so careful during the testing phase with the LensAlign and did precisely what you - and the directions - describe.

Trust me, I'm pretty retentive with things like this! So when I got some front focusing values upon testing I was able to dial in a corrective value to get a nice, evenly sharp ruler shot. But real world shooting showed something different and I can't explain why.What Nikon body did you use with your tests? Some Nikons (like my D800E) have known back focusing issues.I used a D800E and tested my own Nikkor 24-70 zoom. The fine-tune values you get will depend upon such parameters as focal length used and distance from camera to target. I actually got a variation of fine-tune values, depending upon FL zoom and consequent setup distance (50 X FL). The variance of those fine-tune values was not too great and I compromised at -11.

This immediately improved the sharpness of the AF in later field tests that I did.I don't believe it's even possible to get an exact fine-tune number for zoom lenses.Since the distance from camera to target (image plane to object plane) can also influence fine-tune values, some have suggested doing the tests at the shooting distance you most frequently use.In any event, don't expect perfect fine-tune values from a zoom. Try to determine one that is pretty good at all distances and zooms.Bottom Line (for me): Most shots I take are stopped down enough to mask anything but the most egregious back or front focusing errors. With my lenses fine-tuned, it's just more likely that the DOF will mask those focus errors anyway. However, when I really need the focus to be spot on, I switch to Live View contrast difference AF - which is more accurate and not affected by fine-tuning values at all. In fact, if the focus for a shot is critical enough, I'll go to LV manual zoomed focus with a tripod.soloryb. If you are using lens align with focus tune, the recommended distances for testing each focal length are on the lens align website. Results are consistent if you work in the recommended range.

I have retested lenses at different times, and even after service, the results / recommended value were consistent.The hardest part of the process is assuring the target is properly setup and in plane with the camera. This is the variable that seems to have the most impact on the results. When setup well, I get 98% + zero line accuracy results.

(Not bad for a target 90 feet away). You need good technique & accurate setup to get the most out of the system. Jsr4522 wrote:If you are using lens align with focus tune, the recommended distances for testing each focal length are on the lens align website. Results are consistent if you work in the recommended range.

I have retested lenses at different times, and even after service, the results / recommended value were consistent.The hardest part of the process is assuring the target is properly setup and in plane with the camera. This is the variable that seems to have the most impact on the results.

When setup well, I get 98% + zero line accuracy results. (Not bad for a target 90 feet away). You need good technique & accurate setup to get the most out of the system.The problems I've read about concerning the FocusTune software is that it crashes and is awkward to use. Based upon my positive experience with Michael Tapes products, I'd buy the software if he improves it a bit.

It's a really big PITA setting up the target correctly in the first place and I'd welcome an automated system of testing - if it works properly. As it is, I've achieved amazing results with just using LensAlign manually.soloryb.

Soloryb wrote:mustaphapashu wrote:Soloryb,Your excellent description of the workflow is exactly what I did. My disappointment came about when I was shooting my 24-70 at 2.8 at some stuff in my backyard. Whether I was focusing close or at a distance nothing was truly sharp; re-setting the AF fine tune to zero and shooting the same subject resulted in a sharp image. All tripod, mirror up, 3200th of a sec shutter, the works.Did you try different zoom focal lengths?I was so careful during the testing phase with the LensAlign and did precisely what you - and the directions - describe. Trust me, I'm pretty retentive with things like this!

So when I got some front focusing values upon testing I was able to dial in a corrective value to get a nice, evenly sharp ruler shot. But real world shooting showed something different and I can't explain why.What Nikon body did you use with your tests? Some Nikons (like my D800E) have known back focusing issues.I used a D800E and tested my own Nikkor 24-70 zoom. The fine-tune values you get will depend upon such parameters as focal length used and distance from camera to target. I actually got a variation of fine-tune values, depending upon FL zoom and consequent setup distance (50 X FL). The variance of those fine-tune values was not too great and I compromised at -11.

This immediately improved the sharpness of the AF in later field tests that I did.I don't believe it's even possible to get an exact fine-tune number for zoom lenses.Since the distance from camera to target (image plane to object plane) can also influence fine-tune values, some have suggested doing the tests at the shooting distance you most frequently use.In any event, don't expect perfect fine-tune values from a zoom. Try to determine one that is pretty good at all distances and zooms.Bottom Line (for me): Most shots I take are stopped down enough to mask anything but the most egregious back or front focusing errors.

With my lenses fine-tuned, it's just more likely that the DOF will mask those focus errors anyway. However, when I really need the focus to be spot on, I switch to Live View contrast difference AF - which is more accurate and not affected by fine-tuning values at all. In fact, if the focus for a shot is critical enough, I'll go to LV manual zoomed focus with a tripod.solorybCameras were a D700 and D810 and yes, I tested both at 24mm and 70mm although I used 25x the focal length. I made a compromise -9 adjustment which was the value half way between what the wide and tele needed.Subsequently the D700 went to Nikon repair because I have long suspected focus problems and a mis-aligned mirror.

Nikon did adjust the mirror and the AF mechanism so it would be interesting to re-test the body.The LensAlign Pro I used has a simple system of insuring the target and camera are parallel so that variable is accounted for. Mustaphapashu wrote:soloryb wrote:mustaphapashu wrote:Soloryb,Your excellent description of the workflow is exactly what I did. My disappointment came about when I was shooting my 24-70 at 2.8 at some stuff in my backyard. Whether I was focusing close or at a distance nothing was truly sharp; re-setting the AF fine tune to zero and shooting the same subject resulted in a sharp image. All tripod, mirror up, 3200th of a sec shutter, the works.Did you try different zoom focal lengths?I was so careful during the testing phase with the LensAlign and did precisely what you - and the directions - describe. Trust me, I'm pretty retentive with things like this!

So when I got some front focusing values upon testing I was able to dial in a corrective value to get a nice, evenly sharp ruler shot. But real world shooting showed something different and I can't explain why.What Nikon body did you use with your tests? Some Nikons (like my D800E) have known back focusing issues.I used a D800E and tested my own Nikkor 24-70 zoom. The fine-tune values you get will depend upon such parameters as focal length used and distance from camera to target. I actually got a variation of fine-tune values, depending upon FL zoom and consequent setup distance (50 X FL).

The variance of those fine-tune values was not too great and I compromised at -11. This immediately improved the sharpness of the AF in later field tests that I did.I don't believe it's even possible to get an exact fine-tune number for zoom lenses.Since the distance from camera to target (image plane to object plane) can also influence fine-tune values, some have suggested doing the tests at the shooting distance you most frequently use.In any event, don't expect perfect fine-tune values from a zoom. Try to determine one that is pretty good at all distances and zooms.Bottom Line (for me): Most shots I take are stopped down enough to mask anything but the most egregious back or front focusing errors. With my lenses fine-tuned, it's just more likely that the DOF will mask those focus errors anyway. However, when I really need the focus to be spot on, I switch to Live View contrast difference AF - which is more accurate and not affected by fine-tuning values at all. In fact, if the focus for a shot is critical enough, I'll go to LV manual zoomed focus with a tripod.solorybCameras were a D700 and D810 and yes, I tested both at 24mm and 70mm although I used 25x the focal length.

I made a compromise -9 adjustment which was the value half way between what the wide and tele needed.I believe that should be done at 50 X FL.Subsequently the D700 went to Nikon repair because I have long suspected focus problems and a mis-aligned mirror. Nikon did adjust the mirror and the AF mechanism so it would be interesting to re-test the body.Post when you retest.The LensAlign Pro I used has a simple system of insuring the target and camera are parallel so that variable is accounted for.That sighting (double hole) feature is what sets LensAlign apart from other similar systems. I've found it critical to get the lens axis at as close to exactly 90-deg as possible and in line with the inner target (the one nearest the ruler).Did you also manually defocus the lens to either infinity or closest before allowing the viewfinder (phase difference) AF to refocus? I think this is also critical since there is some sloppiness in what that AF accepts as spot-on focus.soloryb. Oh my gosh!!! I got my LensAlign setup and tried using it today, and I am pretty frustrated! I am not even able to get it aligned as I am supposed to.I have tried for over an hour to get the alignment perfect, and no matter how hard I try, I cannot seem to get it to work.

Are there some hints that I need to make this work?Both setups are on tripods. I try aligning the holes at f/8, but I cannot get it so that I can see the light through the holes at all. If I go behind the target and look through the hole that way, I can tell if I am 'close', so I go back and forth, and still I am unable to get a perfect alignment.Am I missing something easy?Thanks!

Mustaphapashu wrote:That's interesting because I made the (apparently wrong) assumption that a software based approach would decrease any inconsistency. Do you know if this problem is being directly addressed in the new release? IOW, has FoCal been aware of this?I gave up on FoCal since they released a version for the Mac that 75% of the time would disconnect from the camera before the test was done. There was some sort of communications error in transferring data. At least the Mac version was poorly written buggy S/W not ready for prime time that made the tool virtually worthless for my purposes.The two times I did preserver and kept restarting the process I inconsistent results - the recommended fine tune factors weren't even close.Now I have my own target that does a good job.I might download the never version of FoCal and see if it is less buggy.

Doublehelix wrote:Oh my gosh!!! I got my LensAlign setup and tried using it today, and I am pretty frustrated!

I am not even able to get it aligned as I am supposed to.I have tried for over an hour to get the alignment perfect, and no matter how hard I try, I cannot seem to get it to work. Are there some hints that I need to make this work?Both setups are on tripods.

I try aligning the holes at f/8, but I cannot get it so that I can see the light through the holes at all. If I go behind the target and look through the hole that way, I can tell if I am 'close', so I go back and forth, and still I am unable to get a perfect alignment.Am I missing something easy?Thanks!I know exactly what you're experiencing. The good news is that you can make it better.Try shining a light on the front of the rear target so that the red bulls eye is illuminated. This actually makes it easier to see through the front hole and enables you to adjust it more easily since you can clearly see parts of the red rings of that inner bulls eye.The tripod matters. Try using a tripod that you can raise and lower smoothly.

I have an old Silky with a crank that can be very precisely vertically adjusted.The tripod head matters. Try one that allows for independent panning. Using a ball head will drive you nuts.Use a bubble level on both tripods and the camera. You can get them from Kirk (and other sources) as an adapter if yours doesn't have one already.

The camera level is available as a small hot shoe attachment.Hope that these suggestions help,soloryb. I have both LensAlign & FocusTune. I never could figure out the FocusTune proceedure.